![]() ![]() Is this worth the time/money ? Just wondering. that are designed to be "entire," not notched. Which makes it a good solution for things like TJI, gluelams, etc. It looks like you don't have to cut birdmouths at all. (The CM & I are kind of waiting to see if they will preinstall the VPA on the rafters, or on the top plates, after they "work out" what all that galvanized is for. We will see-the one building uses TJI, which are not very bird-mouth "friendly," so it may be interesting to see how it gets doen in practice. I've spec-ed them on three jobs, but two are pending, and the third I didn't get to supervise. I think it will take a heck of alot more time to use them as opposed to cutting a birdsmouth out of a rafter. When your all done shoot the hurricane ties in. Without them there's nothing to line up pull the rafter in tight and nail it on to the next one. You would have to make a mark on the rafter that represents the outside wall plate and try and line that mark up to the hanger and make sure you nail it perfect so the overhangs line up. Hammer nail in at a slight angle to prevent splitting. Step 4) Install 10d x 1 1/2" nail into tab nail hole. Step 3) Install "B" flange nails in the obround nail holes, locking the pitch. Step 2) Seat rafter with a hammer, adjusting "B" flange to the required pitch. ![]() ![]() Step 1) Install top nails and face PAN nails in "A" flange to outside wall top plate. Maybe they would work better if you had a structural ridge already in place I nail two rafters on one end and two rafters on the other end and then slide my ridge in place and nail the rafters to the ridge brace and then move on and nail the rest of the rafters in by pulling the birdsmouth in tight and nailing off that's your guide and your done. You have four steps to nail these things into the plate and to the rafter. There obviously applied for cathedral ceilings and in my eyes would be a big PITA to work with and a take to much time. ![]()
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